Clynelish 13 yo 1998/2011 (51.7%, The Whisky Agency, Liquid Library, bourbon hogshead, 214 bottles) Remember what Goethe said just before he died, “More Clynelish!” (right, he said “Mehr Licht!”) Colour: white wine. Nose: it’s a very flinty and grassy one, with very little fruit and not even much wax this time. Apple peelings, fresh walnuts, rocks, clay, leather and shoe polish. Austere, but beautifully austere. With water: same, plus ‘a walk in the forest under the rain’ (make that moss, fern and mushrooms). Mouth (neat): well, all the fruits that weren’t in the nose are on the palate. Oranges, butter pears, juicy red apple… There’s also some kirsch and then litres of Williams pear eau-de-vie, with a dash of black pepper. Again, little wax and in that sense, it’s pretty un-Clynelish. With water: same again, water doesn’t change it much. Maybe a little more grass and a salty touch. Finish: long, half grassy, half fruity, with some pepper and nutmeg in the aftertaste. Comments: very good youngish Clynelish, a kind of variant. I don’t mean it’s deviant! SGP:652 – 85 points.