Colour: white wine. Nose: ashier, drier, more austere than the 2007. Hints of fresh rhubarb and sorrel, lime, grass, kelp, damp chalk… With water: the wet tweed jacket is back, and it would come with two Irish Setters – completely wet, of course. Mouth (neat): big, sharp, very green, very lemony, with more rhubarb. A touch of mustard – or wasabi, there. With water: rather almondy this time. Barley water, marzipan… Finish: long, very zesty, very similar to that of the 2009. Grapefruit.